Hand Forged

How best to alloy white gold for hand forged jewellery that will not turn yellowish with use?

I am a home based jeweller that specialises in setting of stones. A constant complaint by clients is, my rings on the outer bottom shank turn pale yellowish with use.Currently my alloy for 750WG is Au76%, palladium8%, Ag16%. Nickel is not to be used because my nickel allergy clients. Thank you.

Try a 75% Au, 20% Pd, and 5% Ag.

Read this “Production and characterisation of 18 carat white gold alloys” http://www.gold.org/discover/sci_indu/GTech/1999_25/White.pdf
This “New Guidelines to define Colour of White Gold announced by MJSA and World Gold Council” http://www.gold.org/jewellery/technology/colours/white_guide.html
This “White Golds” http://www.gold.org/jewellery/technology/colours/white.html
And this “Gold Jewellery Alloys” http://www.gold.org/jewellery/technology/alloys/index.html

Added: So, you need somthing softer then Pd, like copper – but that will change the color. Here’s what you know – There is no white metal. There are only two metals that have color: Gold (yellow) and Copper (red). All other metals are a shade of gray. of these “gray” metals. Nickel and palladium are the best strong ‘bleachers’ of gold. Silver and zinc are moderate bleachers and all others are moderate to weak in effect. Ni if out due to allargies and Pd is limited due to workability. It looks like your next move is to work in some more silver and try some zinc.

http://www.canadajewels.com/pages/whitegold.htm

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